BMW Horsepower Increase

Increasing a BMW’s Horsepower

BMW cars are designed to perform at a specific horsepower in varied conditions. Newer model cars are designed to balance horsepower with fuel efficiency. Increasing horsepower will decrease fuel efficiency.

But sometimes more horsepower is worth a few MPGs. We have the experience and state-of-the-art equipment to adjust your engine to get up to 15-20% more horsepower from your BMW.

Call us at 301-383-1277 to find out more.

Oil and Lube Service

Our Basic Oil Change

Your vehicle relies on oil, lubrication and an oil filter to keep it running smoothly. Motor oil minimizes friction by lubricating, cleaning and cooling critical internal engine components. Normal driving will cause motor oil to become contaminated with wear metals, water and even fuel. Every three months or 3,000 miles, your vehicle should be ready for an oil change. Check your owner’s manual for the specific recommendations for your vehicle. Oil changes at your Bowie Auto Clinic include:

  • Removal and replacement of existing engine oil and oil filter
  • Checking the air filter
  • Checking and topping off all fluids under the hood
  • Lubricating all fittings
  • Checking engine for leaks
  • Checking belts and hoses
  • Checking tire pressure
  • Checking entire undercarriage

Preventive Maintenance

  • Do your own inspection. It’s basic, but give your car a once-over periodically so you catch anything that looks out of the ordinary. Make sure all your lights are working. Check the air pressure in your tires every month or so (and buy a cheap tire air pressure gauge and keep it in the glove compartment). Doing so is good for your tires, gets you better mileage, and saves you money in gas if you discover that the pressure is off. Listen for any strange sounds, inside and out. Make sure your tires have enough tread. You can use a penny to do it, or look out for the wear indicators on the tire treads. If anything’s out of the ordinary, don’t ignore it.

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  • Learn to check your fluids. Even if you don’t ever learn how to change your antifreeze, power steering, coolant, or even your wiper fluid (although seriously, don’t let someone charge you to change wiper fluid), you should learn how to check those fluid levels. In some cases, you can see the tank level directly, but most have gauges or dipsticks you can pull out to check current levels against a notch that indicates optimal levels. Even if your owner’s manual doesn’t have much to say about checking your transmission fluid or antifreeze, don’t be afraid to open the hood and see if you can find it. If you’re running low, add more (if you can) or get it changed. Most importantly, never ignore a leak.
  • Inspect and get your timing and serpentine belts replaced when necessary. Many people will tell you to get your timing belt replaced every 60,000 miles or so, and your serpentine belt replaced every 40,000 miles, give or take. Again, your owner’s manual will offer real numbers for your type of vehicle. If you can’t find the manual, look around online. You’ll probably find the actual recommendation for your car. Use it as a guideline, and ask your mechanic to inspect the belts when it gets time to replace them mileage-wise. If they’re still in good shape, don’t bother, but if they’re worn out, get them replaced before they fail. If you wait and those belts do fail, you’ll break down, and the damaged belt can damage other accessories, making the repair even more expensive.

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  • Check your oil and get it changed regularly. Whether your car has a dipstick to check the oil’s color and oil level or the dipstick has been replaced with an electronic gauge, you should know how to check it. Knowing the difference between clean oil and muddy, murky oil will save you a ton on unnecessary changes and gives you a way to tell if something’s wrong with your engine (e.g. the oil looks terrible but you just had it changed). It’s hard to make a universal recommendation for how frequently you should change your oil, but the answer is—as we mentioned—in your owner’s manual. Don’t just blindly follow the 3,000 mile myth though—for most vehicles it can be as high as 10,000 miles, depending on the oil your vehicle calls for (something else that’s in the manual).
  • Check your battery and clean the contacts (if necessary). Most batteries these days don’t require much in the way of maintenance, but you should know where it is and check it to make sure it’s not leaking and there’s no mineral or other buildup on the contacts. If there is, clean it off with a battery cleaning brush. It will set you back a couple of bucks at any auto parts or department store. Buy one and keep it in the trunk. While you’re at it, consider buying a cheap battery tester or jump starter. You’ll never need to call someone or wait for AAA (or a friendly passer-by) to give you a jump.

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  • Replace your windshield wipers when the view gets streak-y. It may seem silly, but I’ve known several people who just ignored their wipers until they got them replaced as part of a bigger job. Wipers are cheap and easy to replace yourself. Don’t wait until you can barely see through your windshield. Your visibility is important, and you wouldn’t wait until you saw an optometrist to clean your glasses, would you? While you’re at it, give your windshield a good cleaning inside and out—if it’s hard to see, the problem may be inside, not out.
  • Replace your cabin air filter. Replacing a cabin air filter is probably one of the easiest things you can do to keep your car comfortable. Most vehicles make the cabin air filter easily accessible, and replacing it is as easy as opening a box. You can get a fitting filter at any auto parts store. It may not be critical to your car’s operation, but it’s easy, it makes the ride more pleasant, and it’s a repair you’ll never have to pay someone else to do.

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  • Replace your engine air filter. Getting to the engine air filter may be a little trickier depending on the vehicle you have, but replacing it regularly is important. Your owner’s manual will give you a mileage estimate for how frequently you should replace your engine air filter, but if you can get to it, check it. If it’s dirty, replace it. If you drive a ton, especially in stop-and-go traffic or have a long commute, your engine air filter may get dirtier faster than someone who drives open roads or only drives around on the weekends. If you need help or your owner’s manual doesn’t lay out exactly how to do it (although it should), this guide from Jalopnik can help.
  • Get your tires rotated and balanced, and your alignment checked. Your manual will tell you how often to do this, and it’s important to do to make sure your tires wear evenly and your car drives smoothly. You can make your tires—which are expensive to replace all at once, by the way, take it from someone who’s done it several times—last much longer by getting them rotated and balanced. Your alignment is just as important. If you’re fighting your car to keep it straight, that’s a bad situation that’s easily corrected.

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  • Change your spark plugs. If your spark plugs are worn out or covered in buildup, your engine isn’t working efficiently. That can cost you money in fuel for one, but it can also lead to a breakdown. It may sound daunting, but in some cases checking and replacing them isn’t that difficult. If you don’t feel like doing it yourself (or it’s a big and complicated job for your vehicle), follow your manual’s recommendation and get them changed regularly—for most standard copper spark plugs and vehicles, that’s around 30,000 miles (but again, it varies – some iridium plugs can last up to 100,000 miles).
  • These are just a few things that every vehicle needs, and almost all of them are things you can do yourself. We can’t stress enough the importance of checking your owner’s manual for anything we may have overlooked here, or anything specific to your vehicle. If you don’t have your manual, you can find it pretty easily online.

Porsche IMS Bearing Problem

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Problems with Carerra  IMS Bearing One of the weaknesses with the M96/M97 Carerra engine identified in recent years by Porsche has been the (IMS (intermediate shaft) bearing, which supports the intermediate shaft on the flywheel end of the motor. When the bearing wears out, the timing chains on the engine may disengage, and the engine will quickly self-destruct. When the bearing does begin to deteriorate, foreign object debris from the bearing circulates throughout the engine, causing damage to other areas in the engine. This appears to be one of the most common failure mechanisms present with both the Boxster and 911 Carrera engine. There are several warning signs. When you first start your car, you may hear a loud rattling noise that goes away after about 10 seconds or so. When you accelerate, you may also hear this noise too. This noise is the sound of the chains or the bearing rattling around in the engine because the bearing has deteriorated the engine is soon on its way to skipping a tooth on the sprocket and costing you thousands of dollars. If you have the car up on a lift, you can listen carefully and you should be able to isolate the noise to the area of the IMS. Signs of a failing IMS bearing can also be found by inspecting the oil filter. Shiny metallic debris from the balls used within the bearing itself may travel through the oil system and become trapped in the oil filter as well as small bits of black plastic from the seal on the bearing. During a routine clutch job, you can also simply remove the IMS cover and take a closer look at the bearing itself (lock and check the camshafts prior to removing the cover). If the center shaft is wobbly (see video), or the center of the bearing doesn’t spin freely, then it’s probably on its way to failure. Luckily, there are a few solutions available. First, change your oil every 5,000 miles or sooner and use a higher viscosity motor oil that has additional anti-wear additives. Use Porsche approved 5w40 viscosity motor oils, preferably one that carries an API SJ-SL rating. Also consider using an oil with more anti-wear additives (like Zn, P, or moly extreme). Recent regulatory changes in the United States have caused oil companies to revise their formulations of oil and reduce the amount of anti-wear components in them. The reasoning behind this is the belief that these components contribute to premature deterioration of the catalytic converters. The solution to this problem is to make sure that you run motor oil with the proper anti-wear formulations and change your oil often.

Brake Repair & Service

Stop: Ever wondered how your brakes work? Do they squeal or feel squishy? Find out what it all means. And discover what happens during a brake inspection and why Bowie Auto Clinic is the place to go for stopping power.

BRAKE SERVICES

Brakes pulling, pulsating, making noise? Pedal mushy, hard to press, or low? ABS light on? Car not stopping right? Bowie Auto Clinic is your one-stop shop for brake maintenance, diagnosis and repair. Let Bowie Auto Clinic’s  experts assist you with your brake service needs.Just Brakes

  • Warranty on All Brake Services
  • Bleed, Fill and Adjust Brakes
  • Rotor and Drum Resurfacing
  • Caliper Reconditioning and Replacement
  • Wheel Cylinder Replacement
  • New Master Cylinders
  • Brake Line Repair and Replacement
  • New Brake Hoses
  • ABS Diagnosis and Repair
  • Power Boosters
  • Parking Brake Service and Repair

Shop Fees & Disposal Charges

Shop fees charged by Bowie Auto Clinic covers supplies, equipment and materials that are used in quantities impractical to measure for each vehicle. These items include, but may not be limited to, worn out items and tools, lubricants, solvents, small nuts, bolts, washers, clamps and adhesives. It also applies to health and safety equipment to conform to state and local labor laws, such as eye protection, back supports, protective gloves and disposal of shop mop water.

Disposal charges that are charged on specific services and products are not included in the shop fee calculation. These charges are specific to the proper disposal of the hazardous or regulated scrap or waste of the service or product. These include, but may not be limited to, waste oil and filters, antifreeze, transmission fluid, retention devices and scrap tires.